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Sierra Club

Carmel-by-the-Sea

Dreams Start Here, in Carmel-by-the-Sea Carmel-by-the-Sea, more commonly known as simply Carmel, is one of the most famous and beautiful spots in Monterey County. It's on the Pacific Coast Highway about 120 miles south of San Francisco, 5 miles south of Monterey and a 330-mile drive north from Los Angeles.

Carmel-by-the-Sea is very much an artistic community, going way back before famous resident Clint Eastwood really put it on the world map when he became the local mayor from 1986-88. Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson was one early visitor who lived in Carmel for a while, as did the acclaimed landscape photographer Ansel Adams. More recent celebrity residents have included actors Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston, and crime writer James Ellroy. It's a very popular tourist spot, a little like a California version of Aspen in Colorado.

One thing Carmel-by-the-Sea is famous for is that its buildings carry no street numbers. That goes way back, when residents decided they didn't want such modern creations as house numbers and street lights. And they've resisted them ever since. If you're trying to find a restaurant or one of the many fine inns that you can stay at in Carmel, you'll need to know the cross streets. If you're thinking of living there you'll have to collect your mail from the post office like everyone else.

There isn't actually a great deal to do in Carmel, as it has remained largely a village whose residents find it charming enough as it is. You won't find museums to visit – galleries, yes, for artists are still attracted to the place. There are fine, white sand beaches, a mission, some historic houses, and... well, that's about it. Fine dining as well, and some luxurious accommodation – but there are budget choices too, comparatively speaking, if you want to stay and get the night-time atmosphere rather than just pass through.

And if you do want to visit Carmel-by-the-Sea, whether for a day or longer, you'll need to do some thinking to get the most out of it. See below for information on Tor House and the Carmel Walking Tours, both of which need advance planning.

Things to Do in Carmel-by-the-Sea
Carmel Beach City Park
This is Carmel's understandably popular main beach is a short walk from downtown and is always busy. You'll need to get there early, or be lucky, to have any hope of finding a parking spot. Families love the silver sands, surfers like the waves, and everyone likes the views and the sunsets.

Carmel River State Beach
This beautiful white-sand beach backed by dunes is to the south of the Carmel Beach City Park. It tends to be slightly less crowded, and has the added attraction of a bird sanctuary next to it where pelicans, cormorants, kingfishers, hawks, and lots of shoreline waders can be seen.

Carmel Mission
The Carmel Mission is one of the biggest in California, and has the name to go with it: the Mission San Carlos Boromeo del Rio Carmelo. It was founded in 1771 by Father Junipero Serra, who is buried here. It was the second of the 21 California missions he built and became Father Serra's headquarters. The Mission is also the last resting place of over 3000 Native Americans, and their graves are decorated with seashells, a moving sight. There are guided tours of the Mission or you can just wander round by yourself and look at the 1793 stone church, California's first college library, Father Serra's simple bedroom, the historic kitchen, and the beautiful flower gardens.

Carmel Walking Tours
Check the website of the Carmel Heritage Society for the regular walking guided tours they provide, giving visitors an insight into the history of this fascinating community. At present the walking tours are not held every week so you may want to check the schedule and time your visit to enable you to take one, as they'll add a lot to your stay in Carmel-by-the-Sea.

Point Lobos State Reserve
A few miles south of Carmel on Highway 1 is this 350-acre reserve, reminding us that most of the Pacific Coast belongs not to celebrities and tourists but to the wildlife that lives there. But being so close to Carmel this beautiful place also gets busy, so plan to get there early in the day, or leave it till later when some of the crowds have gone home. It stays open till a half-hour after sunset, and late on a hot day is also a good time to see the wildlife getting active again.

There are various trails through the reserve, including the Sea Lion Point Trail – guess what you might see there. There are also seals, sea otters, deer, wild flowers, dramatic cliffs, abundant bird life, and it's also a good place for whale watching at the right time of year. You'll also want to allow time to take the Cypress Grove Trail and see the impressive Monterey Cypress forest.

Qualified scuba divers should know that there is also a 750-acre underwater marine park for them to explore. Hey, there's a lot to see – be there at 9am when they open and if you're a real nature-lover you may still be there to watch the sunset.

Tor House
Tor House is one of the most interesting of Carmel's historic homes, and was built in 1918-19 by the poet Robinson Jeffers. It's certainly in an inspiring spot, with lovely gardens and overlooking the sea. You don't need to know anything about Robinson Jeffers to appreciate a visit, though you'll know all about him by the end of it. He built the 40-foot Hawk Tower, whose walls are set with stones from the Carmel coastline and from around the world. The docents will point out the stone from the Great Wall of China. If you want to see the house check the website and make a booking, as it's by guided tour only, with only six people at a time, and only once an hour on Fridays and Saturdays.

Carmel Bay from Pebble Beach


FOR MORE CARMEL INFORMATION
For further information about Carmel-by-the-Sea visit the
Carmel Business Association website.


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